Bichlbach – Augusta [Day 16]

 
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Una giornata lunghissima, indimenticabile nel bene e nel male.
Alle 9 finisco di caricare la bici davanti ai simpatici ospiti della Pension Tirol: tante domande, sguardi increduli, saluti e incoraggiamenti. Mi sento un eroe.
Subito una cattiva sorpresa: la via ciclabile non esiste, o meglio, si riduce a un sentiero impraticabile e sbarrato da un cancello di legno. Più probabilmente sono io che non riesco a trovarla, magari ho sbagliato qualcosa nella messa a punto del percorso, fatto sta che mi tocca la statale. La cosa non sarebbe grave, soprattutto per uno abituato a strade come l’Appia e la Casilina, se non fosse per il cartello, impossibile da non vedere, che ne viete esplicitamente il transito alle biciclette: non avendo alternative non posso che far finta di niente. Fortunatamente, dopo pochi metri incrocio un ciclista che procede nella direzione opposta e la cosa mi tranquillizza: è sempre piacevole scoprire di non essere l’unico ad infrangere la legge.
Passato il confine, con l’immancabile foto di rito del cartello che segnala l’ingresso in Germania, in breve sono a Fussen, piacevole cittadina di media montagna colorata e caratteristica, dove mi concedo un bretzel al burro e faccio l’ennesima scorta di panini, solo per accorgermi subito dopo che ho la borsa piena di pane! Per evitare situazioni di “emergenza alimentare”, infatti, sono giorni che compro più pane di quello che riesco a consumare, con il risultato che ne ho accumulato di tutte le forme e varietà.
Da Fussen parte la Romantische Strasse, un famoso itinerario turistico e ciclistico lungo oltre 400km e di cui seguirò solo una parte, fino ad Augusta appunto.

A Reutte fatico a trovare una banca, per un attimo mi viene il dubbio che in questi giorni in cui sono un po’ fuori dal mondo sia finalmente crollato il sistema bancario internazionale, senza che io ne fossi venuto a conoscenza, poi però il sogno svanisce allo spuntare della Sparkasse dove riuscirò a prelevare dei contanti.
La campagna bavarese si rivela molto più ostica del previsto. Si scende di quota molto lentamente e la pianura si lascia andare spesso ad ondulazioni più o meno accentuate, e a volte a vere e proprie zone collinose. Alcuni strappi particolarmente duri mi riportano con la mente ai giorni marchigiani, non sono passate neanche due settimane eppure sembra una vita fa. Un chilometro di salita al 13%, inaspettato, arrivato in uno dei momenti più caldi della giornata ma fortunatamente subito dopo un’enorme fetta di torta alle fragole e una massiccia ingestione di liquidi, mi fa seriamente pentire di essere nato.
Il paesaggio varia molto durante l’arco della giornata e dei 155 km percorsi: le alpi sono sempre più piccole alle mie spalle fino a scomparire del tutto, tutt’intorno campagna, campi coltivati con innumerevoli trattori a fare su e giù, prati, boschi, laghi, fiumi e ruscelli. Per lo più si tratta di paesaggi bellissimi, davvero degni nota, che mi regalano tra l’altro numerosi incontri con animali selvatici, alcuni dei quali riuscirò a fotografare o riprendere: tanti rapaci, uno piuttosto grande immortalato in un video, un paio di daini, una lepre e un topolino veloce come una saetta.
Anche la tipologia di strade sulle quali mi ritrovo a pedalre varia in continuazione: si va da minuscole e pittoresche stradine di campagna, a vere e proprie piste ciclabili asfaltate fino alle strade bianche e ai numerosi e immancabili sentieri sterrati, alcuni facilmente percorribili altri decisamente più ostici.
E a proposito di strade oggi mi perdo in continuazione e fatico come mai prima d’ora a mantenere la giusta rotta: un’autentica caccia al tesoro. Complici di questa situazione un malfunzionamento della mappa caricata sul gps, che arriva proprio nel momento meno opportuno e che mi impedisce una visualizzazione dettagliata della zona che sto attraversando, fornendomi soltanto una visione d’insieme dell’area, e una segnaletica grottesca per non dire infame, che in alcuni punti sembra posizionata appositamente con lo scopo preciso e maligno di farti sbagliare strada.

A 25km da Augusta decido di fermarmi, sono già le sei, ho percorso più di 120km e non ho voglia di subire lo shock di un arrivo tardivo in una città sconosciuta. Invece, com’è logico, da quel momento in poi attraversò soltanto paesi fantasma, letteralmente deserti e privi di qualsiasi attività commerciale, caffè o pensione che sia. L’ordine e la disciplina che trasudano questi agglomerati residenziali dimenticati nella campagna bavarese mi lascia sconcertato: dalle onnipresenti bandiere tedesche alle bmw parcheggiate ovunque, dai giardini immacolati che sembrano finti e fino ai pochissimi indigeni che incontro (tutti invariabilmente alti, grossi, biondi, tatuati e incazzati neri) tutto mi lascia pensare che da queste parti non abbiano ancora saputo, o non si vogliano rassegnare, della fine del regime nazista. Sarò anche vittima dei pregiudizi, non lo metto in dubbio, ma sta di fatto che non ho neanche il coraggio di chiedere un po’ d’acqua, che ad un certo punto, vista la situazione, è diventata di gran lunga la mia principale preoccupazione.

Arrivo ad Augusta alle 8, stanco, affamato e disidratato, ma più che altro deluso dalla piega finale inaspettata presa da questa bellissima giornata, ed è esattamente lo shock che prevedevo. Grazie all’infallibile aiuto logistico del mio personalissimo servizio di assistenza alloggi e affini, riesco finalmente a trovare un ostello al centro e dopo aver portato la bicicletta per una rampa di scale e tutto il bagaglio per due, e aver scoperto che il servizio internet è fuori uso, posso finalmente dedicarmi a una birra nella piazza della città, dove impazza il sabato sera.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Distanza percorsa oggi: 154 km
Distanza totale percorsa: 1297 km
Tempo di percorrenza: 11:00 ore (8:20 in sella)
Velocità media (in movimento): 18.4 km/h

Dislivello complessivo: 1193 mt
Elevazione massima: 1156 m s.l.m.
 

P ed L raccontano…

Il racconto di P ed L arriverà il prima possibile!

Guarda la mappa con tutte le tappe percorse!
 

 
Autore dell'articolo:

 

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  2. Che macchina usi per le foto veramente belle, alla fine tappone da 150 niente male con tutti gli imprevisti, dai così.

     
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    • Ciao Carletto, la macchina che utilizzo è una Olympus xz-1, è una compatta (un paio di anni fa quando la comprai era la migliore sul mercato) ma fa foto di qualità professionale..
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